The best way to understand an Indian city is to eat your way through its old quarter. These five food trails are easy to follow on foot.
Prices are per person for a full evening of eating, from street stalls to a sit-down meal.
Old Delhi
Delhi, India
Chandni Chowk and the lanes around Jama Masjid have been feeding the city for centuries.
Best timeOctober to March
Est. costRs 400 to 4,000 per person per evening
Ideal forFood lovers, friends
StayCentral Delhi, Paharganj
Budget options
Normal
Rs 400
- Paranthe Wali Gali and chaat stalls
- Metro to Chandni Chowk
Premium
Rs 1,500
- Guided food walk
- Kebabs near Jama Masjid
Luxury
Rs 4,000+
- Private chef-led tour
- Dinner at a heritage haveli
Food and local dishes
- Stuffed paranthas: Paranthe Wali Gali
- Daulat ki chaat: a winter-only milk foam dessert
- Mutton nihari and kebabs: near Jama Masjid
Things to do
- Walk Chandni Chowk early evening
- Climb the minaret at Jama Masjid
- Visit the spice market at Khari Baoli
Who it suits
- KidsCrowded lanes; hold hands and go early
- AdultsThe full experience, best with a guide
- SeniorsTake an e-rickshaw between stops
Travel tips
- Go hungry and share every plate
- Eat where the queue is longest
Lucknow
Uttar Pradesh, India
The home of Awadhi cooking, slow-cooked kebabs and biryani in the old Chowk and Aminabad.
Best timeOctober to March
Est. costRs 300 to 3,500 per person per evening
Ideal forFood lovers, families
StayHazratganj, Gomti Nagar
Budget options
Normal
Rs 300
- Kebab stalls in Aminabad
- Shared autos
Premium
Rs 1,200
- Sit-down Awadhi dinner
- Food walk with a local
Luxury
Rs 3,500+
- Awadhi tasting menu at a luxury hotel
- Private car
Food and local dishes
- Galouti kebab: melt-in-the-mouth, in Aminabad
- Awadhi biryani: fragrant and mild
- Makhan malai: a winter morning sweet in Chowk
Things to do
- See the Bara Imambara and its maze
- Shop for chikankari embroidery
- Evening walk at Hazratganj
Who it suits
- KidsMild food and wide markets
- AdultsFood, history and shopping
- SeniorsEasy pace and comfortable restaurants
Travel tips
- Try makhan malai before 10 am; it melts by noon
- Many old shops close on Mondays
Amritsar
Punjab, India
Rich, buttery Punjabi food around the Golden Temple, plus the free langar that feeds thousands every day.
Best timeOctober to March
Est. costRs 300 to 3,000 per person per evening
Ideal forFamilies, pilgrims, food lovers
StayNear the Golden Temple, Ranjit Avenue
Budget options
Normal
Rs 300
- Kulcha and lassi stalls
- Walk or e-rickshaw
Premium
Rs 1,000
- Dhaba dinners
- Wagah border trip by taxi
Luxury
Rs 3,000+
- Heritage hotel stay and dinner
- Private guide
Food and local dishes
- Amritsari kulcha with chole: the city breakfast
- Lassi: thick and creamy, served in steel glasses
- Amritsari fish fry: crisp and spiced
Things to do
- Eat at the Golden Temple langar
- Watch the Wagah border ceremony
- Walk the old city and Jallianwala Bagh
Who it suits
- KidsCalm temple complex and simple food
- AdultsFood, history and the border ceremony
- SeniorsTemple has wheelchairs; Wagah involves standing
Travel tips
- Cover your head inside the Golden Temple
- Reach Wagah at least two hours early
Mumbai
Maharashtra, India
Fast, cheap and everywhere: Mumbai street food is built for people on the move.
Best timeNovember to February
Est. costRs 300 to 5,000 per person per evening
Ideal forFriends, solo travellers
StayColaba, Bandra
Budget options
Normal
Rs 300
- Vada pav and pav bhaji stalls
- Local train
Premium
Rs 1,500
- Irani cafe and seafood dinner
- Taxis
Luxury
Rs 5,000+
- Coastal tasting menu
- Sea-view hotel
Food and local dishes
- Vada pav: the city snack, at any station
- Pav bhaji: buttery, at Juhu Beach or Girgaum
- Bun maska and chai: at an old Irani cafe
Things to do
- Evening at Marine Drive
- Khau Galli food lanes near Mohammed Ali Road in Ramzan
- Walk the Colaba Causeway
Who it suits
- KidsBeach snacks at Juhu; busy crowds
- AdultsEverything, day and night
- SeniorsUse taxis; avoid peak-hour trains
Travel tips
- Avoid local trains at rush hour with luggage
- Pick stalls with high turnover
Kolkata
West Bengal, India
The kathi roll was born here, and every neighbourhood has its sweet shop.
Best timeNovember to February
Est. costRs 300 to 3,500 per person per evening
Ideal forFood lovers, families
StayPark Street, Esplanade
Budget options
Normal
Rs 300
- Rolls and puchka on Park Street
- Metro and trams
Premium
Rs 1,200
- Bengali thali lunch
- Food walk in north Kolkata
Luxury
Rs 3,500+
- Heritage hotel dining
- Private car
Food and local dishes
- Kathi roll: egg or chicken, on Park Street
- Puchka: tangy and spicy, everywhere
- Rosogolla and mishti doi: at any old sweet shop
Things to do
- Ride the tram and see College Street
- Visit the Victoria Memorial
- Ghats on the Hooghly at sunset
Who it suits
- KidsSweets and the Victoria Memorial lawns
- AdultsFood, books and history
- SeniorsSlow pace and good taxis
Travel tips
- Plan around Durga Puja crowds in October
- Sweet shops sell out by evening
Before you go
Start early in the evening, wear comfortable shoes and keep small change ready. Eat little at each stop so you can try more.
